A Tree Grows in Beijing

My first surprise upon arriving in the brand new international terminal in Beijing is the smell. It no longer smelled like China. In all my past trips back to the mothership, I could always tell when I arrived in China by the smell. Some of it was due to childhood memories but most of it was a result of a nation modernizing too fast while the infrastructure struggled to keep pace. This time, it no longer smelled of diesel mixed with dust.

While waiting in a brisked paced customs line (much improved over the mob scene of yesteryear) I watched the janitorial staff switch shifts. A long procession of women marched precisely in a straight line in their matching, starch-pressed gray uniforms. The scene reminded me of Brave New World when Huxley describes the roles of the Gammas versus the Alphas. The Gammas were workers void of all humanity and self identifying features. They answer in unison that Ford is the greatest leader and vow to honor their duty of servitude. I wonder if these women would chime in unison that Chairman Mao is the greatest leader and cleaning their greatest pleasure.

Beijing has greatly improved for the Olympics. The city is much greener and even though a thick layer of soot covers the leaves and petals. The people are nicer too. Especially to a rich white woman (Ali) who can afford to hire her own personal tour guide to accompany her 24/7 (Me). I should have gotten a t-shirt made that says "Not Her Bitch" in Chinese, Vietnamese, Cambodian, Lao and Thai. I guess I can't escape preconceptions anywhere.

Also greatly improved since my last visit to Maoland is the "Squat and Spit" (two separate activities although commonly combined). The holy Chinese trinity is the Squat, Smoke and Spit (SSS). If the SSS is also playing cards, you might as well hang up your flourescent tour hats and call it a day; you've see the heart of China.

Asking for anything in China is like the inner workings of a GPS positioning system. You have to have three points of reference in order to pinpoint the right answer. Example: Ali and I searching for Song, a lounge/club in Beijing to meet up with a friend of mine.

Me (to security guard): Excuse me, do you know how we get to Song? It's in the basement of this building.
Security Guard 1: Down there (vague hand sweep covering about 270 degrees)
Me: I was told that it was downstairs
SG 1: Go as the Security Guard down there (vague hand sweep covering about 180 degrees)

SG 2 (same question): It's downstairs
Me: But how do you get downstairs? All the doors into the building are locked
SG2: Go has the Security Guard at the end

SG 3 (same question): SG2 said what? It's not back here. Go back to the front and ask the Security Guard there (SG1).

Finally, dragging SG3 and SG2 with me to SG1, we were able to figure out the entrance to Song. As it turns out there was this huge sign but the light fixture was broken so we didn't see it.